Anjouan, Former Indian Ocean Pirates' Haven
Political Instability is Keeping the Paradise Island of Nzwani Poor
Jul 14, 2009
The beautiful tropical island of Anjouan is the third largest in the Comoros archipelago. Politically it is part of the Union of the Comoros which is the southernmost member of the Arab League. Lying about 300km (190 miles) east of Mozambique, it is also part of the African Union. Both bodies have recently been involved in trying to restore order and reduce local government corruption.
Although only a third the size of Grande Comore, Anjouan’s population (280,000) is only slightly lower than its partner’s. A high rate of migration keeps the figure from rising still further. It is even poorer than Grande Comore, and most of the population are Sunni Muslims.
Anjouan is volcanic in origin, as are all the Comoros islands, so the soils are fertile, but it is very mountainous. Mount Ntigui (1,580m or 5,200ft) is the highest peak, and the slopes still have some of the original lush forest cover intact. Good beaches are few, there are no deep water harbours and hardly enough flat land for the tiny air-strip.
Anjouan’s Long History of Lawlessness and Political Instability
- Anjouan was first settled by sailors from Java who island-hopped along the northern Indian Ocean, possibly in the 4th century.
- By the 15th century, Shirazi and Yemeni trading people had introduced Islam and created a ruling Swahili-Arab-style elite who brought in slaves from the African mainland.
- Pirates of mainly French origin settled on the island, then known Johanna, and took advantage of weak sultanate rule to use it as raiding base in the days of the East India trade.
- France took over all the Comoros islands in 1886 and French is still used in Anjouan as well as Comorian, a form of Swahili.
- Since independence from France in 1975 there have been 20 coups and several attempts to go it alone.
- With a male-dominated culture, ownership of weapons is common, the weapon of choice being the Kalashnikov.
- Kevin Rushby, a respected travel writer, (reference below) says Anjouan is ‘beyond the reach of Interpol’.
Tourism Potential in Anjouan
- Mountain walking, forest trails, many waterfalls and wonderful coastal scenery.
- Wildlife includes the critically endangered Anjouan Scops-owl, an indigenous fruit bat and a deep cave where coelacanth-type 'fossil fish' can be seen swimming.
- The capital, Mutsamudu, has some interesting old merchants’ houses in narrow streets of the old town that is a smaller version of Moroni on Grande Comore and Zanzibar's Stone Town.
- Off-shore reefs provide some of the world’s best and least frequented snorkelling and scuba sites and excellent deep-sea fishing.
- Anjouan’s mystique includes colourfully veiled women, exotic local customs, and the heady scents of ylang-ylang oil (the main export) used as a perfume base, and vanilla and cloves.
- Waterfront and back-alley bars with lots of edgy ambience, although public consumption of alcohol is forbidden.
- Pirate haunts and legends – Long John Silver in Treasure Island was drawn from a real character based in Anjouan rather than the Caribbean as is generally assumed.
- Food is usually fresh fish, fruit and vegetables with imported rice, cooked with French flair and lots of spices.
At the moment, only the more hardy backpackers go to Anjouan, normally by ferry from Grande Comore. Usually these are French or South African. Even the cruise lines that used to call are staying away, except for the occasional visit from MSC ships. Unless political stability can be re-established, tour companies will not be willing to include this atmospheric and beautiful Indian Ocean island on their itineraries.
Further information and references:
Hunting Pirate Heaven by Kevin Rushby, Constable & Robinson Ltd, 2001, ISBN 1-84119-488-3
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